hawa mahal
History of Jaipur, Jaipur Then and Now

Hawa Mahal | Jaipur Then & Now

Ever since Hawa Mahal, an exotic looking building came into being in 1799 AD it has inspired travelers to visit Jaipur. It became synonymous with the city. Travelers coined the word “Palace of Winds” for this stunning piece of architecture because that is what it translated into. Hawa Mahal was commissioned & built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh.  Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II, a photography enthusiast captured “Palace of Wind” in several pictures during the second half of the 19th century. Here’s an account of a traveler -Edwin Arnold who visited Jaipur in the late 1800s & chronicled this in his book “India Revisited”

“…….. Hawa Mahal, or “Hall of the Winds,” a vision of daring and dainty loveliness, nine stories of rosy masonry and delicate overhanging balconies and latticed windows, soaring with tier after tier of fanciful architecture in a pyramidal form, a very mountain of airy and audacious beauty, through the thousand pierced screens and gilded arches of which the Indian air blows cool over the flat roofs of the very highest houses. Aladdin’s magician could have called into existence no more marvelous abode…….”

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Inspiration for the “Jaipur Then & Now” series is the 290th birthday of Jaipur.

Jaipur was founded on 18 November 1727 AD as India’s first planned city by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II. Jaipur Now & Then explores Jaipur by comparing old & new pictures shot from the same location.

So, what has changed over the last one and half-century? The road facing Hawa Mahal now has a divider that was unheard of in the old days. Cars & automobiles have replaced bullock carts. Shutters have replaced fabric awnings on the shop front.

Have you read – Exploring Hawa Mahal in Jaipur/ Iconic Tourist Attraction of The Pink City in Pictures?

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Tourists and Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

Traffic around Hawa Mahal has become tough to grapple with. The entire stretch is crowded throughout the day.

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Tourist buses make a mandatory stopover at Hawa Mahal on their way to Amer Fort. With tourists around, hawkers & sellers are looking for an opportunity to sell.

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Tourists at Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

Shops opposite Hawa Mahal sell touristy stuff and are always buzzing with tourists and sellers. It is one of the top tourist places to visit in Jaipur.

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Hawa Mahal picture
Hawa Mahal is shaped like a crown. It was inspired by the Mukut or crown of Lord Krishna.
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Hawa Mahal captured in an old postcard

This picture captures Badi Chaupar, a market square near the famous Johri Bazar & Hawa Mahal. It does not capture the grandeur of “Palace of Wind” but it is a contextual picture showing Hawa Mahal and its surroundings. Badi Chaupar occupied a prominent place in the history of Jaipur city either for the water fountains or as a water source- there was an underground canal flowing underneath. But all that has changed now both in terms of utility and aesthetics.

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This is how Badi Chaupar looks like now. Hawa Mahal still continues to charm tourists as before & it is one of the best-maintained heritage sites in Jaipur. The ongoing metro work has increased the traffic woes for both tourists and locals. The world certainly has changed and so has traffic! The wide roads of yesteryear have shrunk in the name of development, encroachment & traffic.

Have you read – Exploring Hawa Mahal in Jaipur/ Iconic Tourist Attraction of The Pink City in Pictures?

Check out other posts in Jaipur Then and Now.

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How did you like this exploration of Hawa Mahal through its history in these pictures? Will love to hear your views, comments, and suggestions.

 

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124 thoughts on “Hawa Mahal | Jaipur Then & Now”

    1. Thanks, Pradita. These pictures were not taken when Hawa Mahal was constructed, rather half a century later or more. Photography technology was developed around 1820’s whereas Hawa Mahal came into being in 1799 AD. 😊
      Happy to hear that you liked this post, Pradita. 😊

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      1. Wow! That brings up so many questions like what was it like back then? And just how much time did it take, the technology, the masonry…. Is there a recorded document or soemthing about how it was commissioned and built?

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      2. There are pieces but not entirely as India doesn’t have a culture of recording history like Egypt or other civilizations. Hawa Mahal was built in 1799 AD by Maharajah Sawai pratap Singh who had great taste for architecture, art and devotion. He was an ardent Krishna follower. Hope that helps, Pradita! Let me know anything else you want to know about it.

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      3. I know. More’s the pity that we Indians did not have any interest in recording things so posterity could learn. Thank you for the bit of info. I always know who to get in touch with when it comes to travelling, photography and Rajashthan 🙂

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      4. Ha ha! Thank you considering me for all three subjects but frankly, I’m no expert in either of these three! I’m just an enthusiast! 🙂
        So when are you traveling to Rajasthan?

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  3. I like the juxtaposition of the old and new photos of the architectural wonders of Jaipur. Well one, my dear friend! Only someone who loves his hometown as much as you do can write such an amazing post. Thank you, Arv!

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    1. I think old and new pictures show the contrast and change which has taken place in last one and half century. There are aspects that we all love about our home town. At the same time there are some things that we don’t like. Happy to hear that you loved this post. 😊

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    1. Sudhir, I think we owe it to the photographers who shot these pictures. We have something to cherish and compare. There are couple of more pictures but I have chosen just a few. Happy to hear that you liked this post and pictures, Sudhir.

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  6. I love this concept of ‘Then and Now’ pictures! I have been compiling similar pictures of Bombay, that is the present day Mumbai for a couple of years and your posts just motivated me to speed up my trips to document more such pictures so that I can come up with a similar post very soon!
    Cheers and keep them coming!

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      1. That’s a good idea! I had thought about doing a single post but a series seems to be a better way to go about it 🙂 I ‘ll try to do it in a new blog altogether since I want to keep the ‘Season Of Mountains’ exclusively about treks and trips 🙂
        As for a timeline, I think next summer seems the most realistic cos I am in the middle of another trek post which ‘ll easily take up another month and only then I can move onto setting up the new blog 🙂

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      2. Take your time and be comfortable with what you. Surest way to enjoy what you are planning! Let me know if I can be of any help. This project sounds interesting 🙂

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  9. Great post Arv! it’s a goosebump moment for me to check the old pictures! Kings have come and gone, the Hawa Mahal stands stall even today! I have seen it in person some two decades back, want to visit again with my camera for sure! Superb post! thank you for that!

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    1. It’s true that buildings outlast people which is why rulers used to build grand buildings and structures. I’m sure you will enjoy visiting Hawa Mahal with your camera. Have you read my post on exploring Hawa Mahal? Not many people venture out to explore structures behind the facade.

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      2. Happy to hear that your Rajasthan experience was great. I guess you should plan for another trip! Jaipur and rest of Rajasthan…that you left! I’m assuming you left a part because its quite vast and most travelers are able to do sections even in 10 day trip!

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    1. Thank you. I think we really need to take a stock of situation as far as heritage is concerned. Encroachment and damage to heritage structures is a big issue! These pictures provide us a great comparison. What do you think?

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    1. Absolutely. I love the empty roads of old days. There’s too much traffic and crowd now a days! Thanks for appreciating and sharing your thoughts, Neha 🙂

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  15. It is fascinating to read of the Hawa Mahal and the comparison between then and now. Can definitely see how it is like a shape of a crown, and it looks very much symmetrical. ‘Palace of the Winds’ is such a serene translation, but given that the area there is now a tourist hotspot, it sounds like a very bustling atmosphere. Hopefully the roadside sellers don’t dampen the tourist experience. Then again, given that a lot of people still visit the Hawa Mahal, being hassled by sellers might be the last thing on their minds. I suppose the more vehicles, the more people can get to this historical and significant destination. Development is always done with the aim of improving lifestyles…so hopefully at some point the congestion will ease. Hope you’ve been well, Arv 🙂

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    1. Thanks for sharing your views Mabel. I don’t think that tourists are being harassed so much that it spoils their experience. Some tourists are in fact looking for an opportunity to buy when they are tight schedule set by travel companies. But independent travelers have lots of such opportunities. The issue of traffic congestion is more about increasing vehicles on the road. Yes, the markets are thriving and lively. Do you know it is one the most photographed monuments of Jaipur? Check Instagram, Mabel!

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      1. Great that when you want to buy, there’s a chance to buy. Sometimes you just want to take a piece of the place home with you. Sometimes a place is worth the traffic congestion to visit. Amazing that it’s a popular destination to be photographed. You could probably spend hours there 😀

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      2. Yes, despite traffic, Hawa Mahal and other tourist attractions are still in a great demand, Mabel. Surely, you will be mesmerized with the architecture. I do think it must have been much better in earlier days when there was not much traffic and noise pollution! 🙂
        Souvenir? They are always popular among tourists…everywhere not just in Jaipur or India! which is a reason why you find them around tourist places. Do you also love souvenir shopping when you travel, Mabel?

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      3. Souvenirs can be something memorable to take away from a place and capture a moment there forever. Not a huge fan of souvenirs myself because I do like to focus on exploring places that I go 🙂

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  19. Pingback: Jaipur Then & Now – Choti Chaupar – Jaipur Thru My Lens !!

    1. I guess most of us have only seen Hawa Mahal from our times. These old pictures are priceless and open up a different world for us all to see. Happy to hear that you are from Jaipur. Its been long since you left the city?

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