Jaipur is popular among the traveler’s world over as the Pink City.  Acclaimed for its forts, palaces, culture, traditions, and handmade art in the form of fabric, paper, and blue pottery to name a few. Among many things, its architectural legacy is well-known and appreciated. Haveli in Jaipur is one of the most dominant aspects of its built heritage; these are traditional courtyard mansions used as residential units. Jaipur has continued to wow visitors and travelers to the city ever since it was founded with its grandeur. Jaipur was founded by Sawai Jai Singh II in 1727 AD as a planned trading city.  Many of these Jaipur Haveli have historic significance like this one here on Chhoti Chaupar. A large number of old Haveli in Jaipur can be found in the Jaipur walled city area although a few are located outside the walled city. Jaipur Haveli is a reflection of yesteryear’s grandeur and provides a great option to study the evolution of society.

Despite living in Jaipur for many years, I have never lived in the walled city area of Jaipur. I found the walled city area unkempt and shabby. This was because of the open drainage system open garbage dumping in the by-lanes and issues related to cleanliness and traffic.

Little did I realize at that time the walled city of Jaipur was designed for the 18th century. It was much before consumerism took birth which generates tons of waste. The issues have only aggravated over the last few decades. I started appreciating the local and unique architecture of Jaipur having stayed in other cities for a long duration and extensive travels. This write-up is an extension of my previous post Why Our Attitude Towards Heritage Needs A Big Change?

Jaipur Haveli | A Complete Guide

The by-lanes of bazaars have many beautiful mansions and built-in local vernacular architectural styles. Some call it Rajput architecture; a few Jaipur Haveli have elements usually found in Dhundhadi architecture; Jaipur is part of a region called Dhundhad. Mansions across Rajasthan carry some common design elements. These Haveli have many interesting features like lattices, Jharokas, Chowk, and Tibara, to name a few. One of the striking features of the Haveli in Jaipur is the Araiash work.

Here is a picture of a beautiful Haveli in Jaipur

As per the planned layout of Jaipur, the city was divided into various zones. People were allocated land for building a Haveli based on many parameters. Here is one such Jaipur Haveli or mansion belonging to an influential person in Jaipur court.

This is one of the better restored Haveli in Jaipur and has been turned into a museum called the Museum of Legacies.

Yet another Jaipur Haveli in the historic town of Amer has been converted into a textile museum, called Anokhi Museum

Haveli meaning?

Haveli is a traditional residential mansion found in certain areas of India. Some experts think the word Haveli has an Arabic origin. It is difficult to arrive at a firm conclusion. The courtyard or Chowk of a Haveli represents an essential feature in all such structures. Here are pictures showing the entrance of Haveli opening into a courtyard. The activities of the residential unit revolve around the courtyard. The courtyard is an enclosed space from all four sides but is open to the sky allowing sunlight, air, and water.

Many historians assume this kind of residential unit developed during the Mughal rule.

Where Can You Find A Haveli in India?

Haveli can be found across North India. However, this idea is open to debate.  The traditional Chettinad mansions in South India also have open-to-sky courtyards, but there are many other differences. The local architectural styles are substantially influenced by climate, social structures, customs, and traditions. It is prudent to say that Haveli architecture derives its design elements on this basis.

Rajasthani Haveli Architecture

Another fascinating thing to note is that Rajasthani Haveli’s architecture varied depending on caste and social structure along with the location. The Haveli of nobles, Thikanedaar, and aristocrats varied drastically from the ones belonging to merchants/Banias, Brahmins/Rajpurohits, and commoners. The Haveli in Jaisalmer varied drastically from the ones in Jaipur, Bikaner, or Udaipur. These buildings were built depending on social customs and practices, the availability of building materials, and local climatic conditions. Usually, the Haveli were built on a raised plinth level.

Rajasthani Haveli is famous the world over. The Haveli of the Shekhawati region is well-known for beautiful Shekhawati frescoes adorning their walls. Many such buildings have now been converted into hotels granting them a renewed lease of life. For the uninitiated, the owners of these Havelis migrated to cities like Kolkatta and Mumbai many decades ago for lusher pastures. All such mansions are dying due to neglect with owners deciding not to return. Here is a picture of a magnificent Haveli in and around the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan.

Here is another picture showing a beautiful wall fresco in Haveli in Jaipur supposedly 200 hundred years old.

Jaipur Haveli | Issues

The Jaipur Haveli do not suffer from the problems experienced by the ones in the Shekhawati region. Only a handful of such buildings have been renovated. Listed here are a few of the reasons for the loss of Haveli Jaipur, an integral element of the Pink City’s heritage.

• Losing the Haveli facade

Unfortunately, the facade of the Haveli in Jaipur is being tempered. This is happening at an extremely rapid pace. LMB Hotel in Johari Bazaar now stands tall in place of an old Jaipur Haveli. LMB Sweets is popular for its Ghevar. The building featured in below two pictures below replaced an old Haveli structure.

LMB Hotel underwent a restoration last year but it is still not in line with the local architectural style. The pink color is distinctly different from the terracotta pink used in the walled city area.

In recent times, the owners of Jaipur Haveli have redone the façade to align it with local architecture; ironically, influential people manage permission from the authorities to manipulate rules & regulations. If one were to walk past Johari Bazaar and notice the façade, it is easy to spot the changes. The old façade has given way to modern-looking buildings. It is not challenging to comprehend the reasons; money is a strong motivation! Can you spot the “black sheep” in the below picture?

Here is a picture of one of the many Havelis that are in a bad state and need urgent attention.

• Destruction and Haveli for sale in Jaipur

It is frequent to find the old Jaipur Haveli being razed down to be replaced by a modern building. Despite stringent laws that do not permit the destruction of historic architecture, people discover new ways. Haveli in Jaipur is being sold off and the new buyers are replacing the old buildings with new commercial buildings.

The insiders suggest loopholes in the law to accomplish the desired output. Many times, the façade of Haveli is left untouched while the entire structure behind it is pulled down and replaced by new construction. Here is a set of three pictures depicting how a charming Haveli was pulled down to build a building for offices.

This continued even when Jaipur was awarded a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here is one such Haveli which was destroyed even when the authorities pledged to save the remaining heritage. “Jaipur Haveli for sale” is being actively scouted by many investors because of the demand for commercial space in the walled unit.

• The commercial activity inside Haveli in Jaipur

The Jaipur Haveli is being replaced with a commercial complex which only compounds the problem that the walled city is facing, increased commercial activity and traffic congestion. Each additional commercial complex puts a burden on existing infrastructure. Unfortunately, none of the governments – past or present have put into thought and worked on a plan to mitigate the problem. The picture below is an eye-opener as to how the walled city area in Jaipur is witnessing a big rush toward commercial spaces.

• The Pink Colour of Havelis in Jaipur

The government rule mandates a uniform color code to be used on all building facades of Jaipur Haveli on the main road. This is the approved pink color to be painted on all buildings – Terracotta pink!

This also means the paintwork is carried out by the local authorities to ensure uniformity. Unfortunately, some people find ways to circumvent this rule. The result is an eyesore like this.

• Lack of Government support in maintaining & renovating Jaipur Haveli

Unlike many countries in Europe where the authorities mandate rules about renovation and then enforce them by providing assistance, we possess no such structure. Repairing and renovating old architecture remains an expensive affair and it does require financial and technical assistance because many building owners cannot afford the same.

The façade of the main Bazaars receives support from the local body for repair, maintenance, and paint. Below are the pictures of the heritage conservation of the façade in the walled city area undertaken by the local authorities.

Unfortunately, the ones in the by-lane are left on their own. Most old buildings were constructed using ancient techniques – lime plaster and local stones. These days it is hard to find skilled people proficient in this technique. Thanks to globalization brick, cement, and RCC structures are ubiquitous. Using these materials in heritage buildings is often ineffective. Sadly, no one is thinking along these lines.

Unfortunately, the built heritage of Jaipur especially Haveli in Jaipur is being destroyed by its citizens. This loss is irreplaceable. It is this priceless architectural legacy that influences thousands of travelers to the pink city. I’m apprehensive there will be very few Havelis a few years down the line for travelers to witness and experience. We need to conserve our built heritage.

It would be pertinent to mention here the family disputes concerning ownership & division of Havelis in Jaipur & Rajasthan. The same has been discussed in detail in this post The old heritage Haveli in Jaipur.

Read the Old Heritage Haveli in Jaipur.

Why does “Haveli Type Of Hotel in Jaipur”  Attract Travellers?

Many travelers prefer to stay in Haveli-type Hotels in Jaipur. There are two ways to experience Havelis in Jaipur.

• One is a stay in the Jaipur Haveli Hotel.
• Two, with a heritage walking tour.

A stay in a traditional Haveli-type hotel in Jaipur represents a remarkable cultural experience allowing travellers an immersive encounter. Unfortunately, there are very few authentic Haveli hotels to stay in Jaipur open for travelers like Samode Haveli and Alsisar Haveli. Many modern hotels replicate traditional Heritage Haveli in Jaipur and fool travelers. You can find these outside the walled city area, especially in Bani Park. As for a walking tour read on.

Here is an authentic Jaipur Haveli in Johari Bazar which is worth staying in. It is tucked in a small lane of the busy Johari Bazar.

Another Haveli was recently converted into a heritage hotel and is called The Johari. The history of this Haveli is that it was popular by the name of Lal Haveli and owned by the Kasliwal family. I wish it was more authentic; the pastel colors in the renovated or restored areas seem to have been inspired by the Spanish mansions on the Mediterranean coast.

I hope many more traditional mansions in the walled city are converted into either BNB or hotels so that travelers can have an authentic experience. Unfortunately, owing to market dynamics these are turning into office or retail spaces.

How to witness and explore the traditional Haveli in Jaipur?

The best way to do this would be through a heritage walk in Jaipur. I have written about one such experience in this write-up Heritage Walking Tour In Jaipur. You can also undertake a walking tour on your own Self-Guided Walking Tour In Jaipur.

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Have you ever stayed in a traditional Haveli in Jaipur or elsewhere in Rajasthan? Do you think these Havelis in Rajasthan are an important part of our built and cultural heritage? I would love to hear your thoughts on the same.