Jaipur is popular among the traveler’s world over as the Pink City. Acclaimed for its forts, palaces, culture, traditions, and handmade art in the form of fabric, paper, and blue pottery to name a few. Among many things, its architectural legacy is well-known and appreciated. Haveli in Jaipur is one of the most dominant aspects of its built heritage; these are traditional courtyard mansions used as residential units. Jaipur has continued to wow visitors and travelers to the city ever since it was founded with its grandeur. Jaipur was founded by Sawai Jai Singh II in 1727 AD as a planned trading city. Many of these Jaipur Haveli have historic significance like this one here on Chhoti Chaupar. A large number of old Haveli in Jaipur can be found in the Jaipur walled city area although a few are located outside the walled city. Jaipur Haveli is a reflection of yesteryear’s grandeur and provides a great option to study the evolution of society.
Despite living in Jaipur for many years, I have never lived in the walled city area of Jaipur. I found the walled city area unkempt and shabby. This was because of the open drainage system open garbage dumping in the by-lanes and issues related to cleanliness and traffic.
Little did I realize at that time the walled city of Jaipur was designed for the 18th century. It was much before consumerism took birth which generates tons of waste. The issues have only aggravated over the last few decades. I started appreciating the local and unique architecture of Jaipur having stayed in other cities for a long duration and extensive travels. This write-up is an extension of my previous post Why Our Attitude Towards Heritage Needs A Big Change?
Jaipur Haveli | A Complete Guide
The by-lanes of bazaars have many beautiful mansions and built-in local vernacular architectural styles. Some call it Rajput architecture; a few Jaipur Haveli have elements usually found in Dhundhadi architecture; Jaipur is part of a region called Dhundhad. Mansions across Rajasthan carry some common design elements. These Haveli have many interesting features like lattices, Jharokas, Chowk, and Tibara, to name a few. One of the striking features of the Haveli in Jaipur is the Araiash work.
Here is a picture of a beautiful Haveli in Jaipur
As per the planned layout of Jaipur, the city was divided into various zones. People were allocated land for building a Haveli based on many parameters. Here is one such Jaipur Haveli or mansion belonging to an influential person in Jaipur court.
This is one of the better restored Haveli in Jaipur and has been turned into a museum called the Museum of Legacies.
Yet another Jaipur Haveli in the historic town of Amer has been converted into a textile museum, called Anokhi Museum
Haveli meaning?
Haveli is a traditional residential mansion found in certain areas of India. Some experts think the word Haveli has an Arabic origin. It is difficult to arrive at a firm conclusion. The courtyard or Chowk of a Haveli represents an essential feature in all such structures. Here are pictures showing the entrance of Haveli opening into a courtyard. The activities of the residential unit revolve around the courtyard. The courtyard is an enclosed space from all four sides but is open to the sky allowing sunlight, air, and water.
Many historians assume this kind of residential unit developed during the Mughal rule.
Where Can You Find A Haveli in India?
Haveli can be found across North India. However, this idea is open to debate. The traditional Chettinad mansions in South India also have open-to-sky courtyards, but there are many other differences. The local architectural styles are substantially influenced by climate, social structures, customs, and traditions. It is prudent to say that Haveli architecture derives its design elements on this basis.
Rajasthani Haveli Architecture
Another fascinating thing to note is that Rajasthani Haveli’s architecture varied depending on caste and social structure along with the location. The Haveli of nobles, Thikanedaar, and aristocrats varied drastically from the ones belonging to merchants/Banias, Brahmins/Rajpurohits, and commoners. The Haveli in Jaisalmer varied drastically from the ones in Jaipur, Bikaner, or Udaipur. These buildings were built depending on social customs and practices, the availability of building materials, and local climatic conditions. Usually, the Haveli were built on a raised plinth level.
Rajasthani Haveli is famous the world over. The Haveli of the Shekhawati region is well-known for beautiful Shekhawati frescoes adorning their walls. Many such buildings have now been converted into hotels granting them a renewed lease of life. For the uninitiated, the owners of these Havelis migrated to cities like Kolkatta and Mumbai many decades ago for lusher pastures. All such mansions are dying due to neglect with owners deciding not to return. Here is a picture of a magnificent Haveli in and around the Shekhawati region in Rajasthan.
Here is another picture showing a beautiful wall fresco in Haveli in Jaipur supposedly 200 hundred years old.
Jaipur Haveli | Issues
The Jaipur Haveli do not suffer from the problems experienced by the ones in the Shekhawati region. Only a handful of such buildings have been renovated. Listed here are a few of the reasons for the loss of Haveli Jaipur, an integral element of the Pink City’s heritage.
- Losing the Haveli facade
Unfortunately, the facade of the Haveli in Jaipur is being tempered. This is happening at an extremely rapid pace. LMB Hotel in Johari Bazaar now stands tall in place of an old Jaipur Haveli. LMB Sweets is popular for its Ghevar. The building featured in below two pictures below replaced an old Haveli structure.
LMB Hotel underwent a restoration last year but it is still not in line with the local architectural style. The pink color is distinctly different from the terracotta pink used in the walled city area.
In recent times, the owners of Jaipur Haveli have redone the façade to align it with local architecture; ironically, influential people manage permission from the authorities to manipulate rules & regulations. If one were to walk past Johari Bazaar and notice the façade, it is easy to spot the changes. The old façade has given way to modern-looking buildings. It is not challenging to comprehend the reasons; money is a strong motivation! Can you spot the “black sheep” in the below picture?
Here is a picture of one of the many Havelis that are in a bad state and need urgent attention.
- Destruction and Haveli for sale in Jaipur
It is frequent to find the old Jaipur Haveli being razed down to be replaced by a modern building. Despite stringent laws that do not permit the destruction of historic architecture, people discover new ways. Haveli in Jaipur is being sold off and the new buyers are replacing the old buildings with new commercial buildings.
The insiders suggest loopholes in the law to accomplish the desired output. Many times, the façade of Haveli is left untouched while the entire structure behind it is pulled down and replaced by new construction. Here is a set of three pictures depicting how a charming Haveli was pulled down to build a building for offices.
This continued even when Jaipur was awarded a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here is one such Haveli which was destroyed even when the authorities pledged to save the remaining heritage. “Jaipur Haveli for sale” is being actively scouted by many investors because of the demand for commercial space in the walled unit.
- The commercial activity inside Haveli in Jaipur
The Jaipur Haveli is being replaced with a commercial complex which only compounds the problem that the walled city is facing, increased commercial activity and traffic congestion. Each additional commercial complex puts a burden on existing infrastructure. Unfortunately, none of the governments – past or present have put into thought and worked on a plan to mitigate the problem. The picture below is an eye-opener as to how the walled city area in Jaipur is witnessing a big rush toward commercial spaces.
- The Pink Colour of Havelis in Jaipur
The government rule mandates a uniform color code to be used on all building facades of Jaipur Haveli on the main road. This is the approved pink color to be painted on all buildings – Terracotta pink!
This also means the paintwork is carried out by the local authorities to ensure uniformity. Unfortunately, some people find ways to circumvent this rule. The result is an eyesore like this.
- Lack of Government support in maintaining & renovating Jaipur Haveli
Unlike many countries in Europe where the authorities mandate rules about renovation and then enforce them by providing assistance, we possess no such structure. Repairing and renovating old architecture remains an expensive affair and it does require financial and technical assistance because many building owners cannot afford the same.
The façade of the main Bazaars receives support from the local body for repair, maintenance, and paint. Below are the pictures of the heritage conservation of the façade in the walled city area undertaken by the local authorities.
Unfortunately, the ones in the by-lane are left on their own. Most old buildings were constructed using ancient techniques – lime plaster and local stones. These days it is hard to find skilled people proficient in this technique. Thanks to globalization brick, cement, and RCC structures are ubiquitous. Using these materials in heritage buildings is often ineffective. Sadly, no one is thinking along these lines.
Unfortunately, the built heritage of Jaipur especially Haveli in Jaipur is being destroyed by its citizens. This loss is irreplaceable. It is this priceless architectural legacy that influences thousands of travelers to the pink city. I’m apprehensive there will be very few Havelis a few years down the line for travelers to witness and experience. We need to conserve our built heritage.
It would be pertinent to mention here the family disputes concerning ownership & division of Havelis in Jaipur & Rajasthan. The same has been discussed in detail in this post The old heritage Haveli in Jaipur.
Read the Old Heritage Haveli in Jaipur.
Why does “Haveli Type Of Hotel in Jaipur” Attract Travellers?
Many travelers prefer to stay in Haveli-type Hotels in Jaipur. There are two ways to experience Havelis in Jaipur.
- One is a stay in the Jaipur Haveli Hotel.
- Two, with a heritage walking tour.
A stay in a traditional Haveli-type hotel in Jaipur represents a remarkable cultural experience allowing travellers an immersive encounter. Unfortunately, there are very few authentic Haveli hotels to stay in Jaipur open for travelers like Samode Haveli and Alsisar Haveli. Many modern hotels replicate traditional Heritage Haveli in Jaipur and fool travelers. You can find these outside the walled city area, especially in Bani Park. As for a walking tour read on.
Here is an authentic Jaipur Haveli in Johari Bazar which is worth staying in. It is tucked in a small lane of the busy Johari Bazar.
Another Haveli was recently converted into a heritage hotel and is called The Johari. The history of this Haveli is that it was popular by the name of Lal Haveli and owned by the Kasliwal family. I wish it was more authentic; the pastel colors in the renovated or restored areas seem to have been inspired by the Spanish mansions on the Mediterranean coast.
I hope many more traditional mansions in the walled city are converted into either BNB or hotels so that travelers can have an authentic experience. Unfortunately, owing to market dynamics these are turning into office or retail spaces.
How to witness and explore the traditional Haveli in Jaipur?
The best way to do this would be through a heritage walk in Jaipur. I have written about one such experience in this write-up Heritage Walking Tour In Jaipur. You can also undertake a walking tour on your own Self-Guided Walking Tour In Jaipur.
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Have you ever stayed in a traditional Haveli in Jaipur or elsewhere in Rajasthan? Do you think these Havelis in Rajasthan are an important part of our built and cultural heritage? I would love to hear your thoughts on the same.
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Its really sad to see old legacies tampered with, renovated or razed to the ground to suit modern demands!!
Rajasthan is full of such examples I’m sure.
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Radhika, there are two sides of a coin. I do feel that heritage should not be destroyed. There are better ways to accomodate the need for commercial spaces. Isn’t it so?
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Of course! But in India we are not proud of our heritage unfortunately. So the priorities are what they are right now!
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True.
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Oh my gosh, how can anyone tear down something so beautiful. The architecture of these buildings is stunning!! As always, your pictures are amazing, Arv!!
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Thanks, Lisa. While we may find these building beautiful, the owners consider them out of sync with the current times. Let’s be honest, money is too tempting! I’m sure you will love staying in one of these mansions converted hotel.
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I’m sure I will, too! 🙂
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😊
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Hey ARV! Nice clicks as always. Visited your blog after long. Good to see you mesmerizing others through your clicks 🙂
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Thanks, Abhay. I’m glad you enjoyed this post. How have you been?
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It was hectic for me 🙂
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Great post Arv. We love the old Havellis in Rajasthan. We stayed in 3 although the one in Jaipur looked more like a traditional mansion than an ornate havelli, it was a beautiful building with elegant details in the ceiling, mouldings, floors etc. Our favourite havelli/hotel was in Udaipur.
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The Havelis in Jaipur are less ornate than the ones in say Shekhawati or Jaisalmer region but they have their own charm. Happy to know you have stayed in Havles during your trip to Rajasthan.
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My hope is that with a renewed interest in the havelis as a cultural heritage many of these magnificent buildings will be spared from destruction. Thank you, Arv!, for another outstanding and interesting article on Jaipur!
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Appreciate your good hope and wish. I’m glad you found this interesting. 🙂
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This is so sad.
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True. Have you ever explored or witnessed any Haveli?
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I have. When I went to Bhuj and also Varanasi. I love the mysterious albeit glamorous vibes they exude.
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Happy to hear that you have witnessed the beauty of our built heritage, Asha.
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That’s quite a collection out there. And very elaborately detailed too. In my mind, I have always associated Havelis with some kind of an enigma. A certain amount of mysteriousness seems to be always associated with them. But sad to know that so many of them are not cared for, some completely changed, some even razed mercilessly. I do hope the ones that are taken care of do stand the test of time and havelis don’t just become a word in text books.
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Neel I’m curious as to why you find Havelis mysterious? I suppose you must have seen a few in Gujarat too. I guess heritage in our country is never a priority. Have you ever stayed in any Haveli? Thanks for sharing your thoughts, Neelanjana.
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The mysterious part might be associated with folklores and also thanks to movies and yesteryear TV serials. Yes, I have seen a couple in Gujarat and they were lovely. In fact we had literally gone chasing a few havelis. I have never stayed in one, but it’s in my wishlist for sure 🙂
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I guess one of the most prominent thriller movies from Bollywood featuring a Haveli from Rajasthan was Bhulbhulaiya. I’m yet to see a Haveli in Gujrat but I suppose it will be similar to the one in Rajasthan because both states share many similarities in climate and culture. I hope you get to stay in Haveli someday. Thanks for sharing, Neelanjana.
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What a fabulous post! I love the havelis and hopefully, one day soon, the government and developers realise these buildings are assets not eyesores! Thanks, Mel
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Thanks Mel for offering your viewpoint on this issue. My only fear is that it might be too late by then. It is sad that people in this country feel anything old is all about past and need to be done away with. Probably, a lot needs to change when it comes to the mindset.
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That is sad and also bad for tourism because that is what we love – you history and culture represented by the beautiful old buildings. Fingers crossed they come to their senses quick!
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Absolutely. I hope so too. 😊
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I so enjoy your posts as it allows me to continue my fascination with all that India has to offer.
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I am happy to hear that you enjoy my posts. Is there anything specific that you would love to read more about?
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Arv, thank you for your length post about Havelis in Jaipur, it indeed breaks my heart that the restoration work is not going the right direction and I wonder why locals are not so much into preserving those old buildings, they present the history and culture of a certain area, when architecture was most beautiful and artistic. Well I see it comes down that money rules, yet Harvelis are part of the charm of Jaipur as of the entire Rajasthan and the investment of restoring them to keep their historic look would be profiting for tourisms. I have stayed in one Haveli in Rajasthan, but would have to look my travel journal what place that was, the other one I had stayed was in Ahemadabad, I know it’s Rajasthan. Thank you again for your share.
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Thanks Cornelia for sharing your thoughts. Money is certainly one big factor for razing down Havelis. A lot has to do with mindset as well. The sensitivity towards our heritage is missing. People are not aware that preserving our heritage can lead to revenues through tourism. Unfortunately, the efforts from the government are missing. Without support and guidelines from authorities, it is an uphill task. We need to learn from other countries as to how heritage buildings can be preserved and utilize them for promotion of tourism. I would love to hear more about your stay in Haveli in Rajasthan, Cornelia.
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Thank you Arv, for responding to my long comment, I can’t agree more with you. I just can’t fathom that some of the treasures of Havelis might not be restored in their historic means or totally demolished.. Have a great weekend Arv.
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Thanks for adding and clarifying, Cornelia. It is a sad scenario.
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Great coverage of the havelis and the sorry plight of many of them. It’s sad to see them neglected and worse demolished. But i guess maintaining them would be quite tough physically and financially.
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It is. That is a reason why I mentioned that involvement of state is important. But wouldn’t it be sad to see them vanish?
I’m sure you must have seen many of these during your stay in Jodhpur.
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Yes, I have. And I truly believe they should be protected and maintained. Architecture is a mirror of past civilizations, their culture and traditions.
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Arv, this is such a sad plight of this once so beautiful old city rich and renowned for its Havelis and heritage buildings. For commoners like us, it is just like helplessly watching this mad rush for consumerism leaving behind the ancient culture and heritage, it is like leaving behind money but not the riches of the heritage for the future generation.
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Sarmistha, you are right. It reminds me of a saying I heard during my growing up years of a man sitting on a coal mine not realizing the presence of diamonds. He would curse over his poverty. This is a similar situation. If these Havelis are restored and converted into hotels or museums, they can create a very good revenue stream. This is an unfortunate scenario. I guess you must have seen a couple of Havelis in Rajasthan or elsewhere.
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Yes Arv, I have seen A few in Rajasthan and also other places and they are a true treasure.
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You are lucky, Sarmistha
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I understand and admire your concern about heritage arv but who cares about it these days! Most of the people who are in charge ( the authorities and the officials) don’t understand the glory or seem to be insensitive to old structures, some of which are dilapidated. Probably their restoration would require more effort than reconstruction and make the land more useful. I have seen many abandoned and locked havelis in Shekawat area, crying for help. Slowly they would meet their end and the land would be acquired by the authorities.
In Jaisalmer, I have seen havelis, which are spooky, dark and dirty from inside yet open to tourists! What is the use of such places?
Having said that, I admire the efforts of private hotel industry, which has taken up old Neemrana forts and many such places that could be maintained through tourism. Heritage would never die in their hands. Even the ruins are majestic!
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Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. I agree no one cares for these old structures. And that’s exactly my point. Many European countries have been very successful in converting these old structures in to museums and inns. Just look at small towns like Bruges and Vernazza. These are so many such towns. While I agree that an enormous amount is required but then the authorities do get whooping amounts as a grant from either center or institution like ADB. The govt machinery wastes this money on insignificant things and it’s siphoned off. There is lack of understanding and direction. While funds is a limitation but not in entirety when it comes to government.
I too have seen some of the Havelis in Jaisalmer. On the positive side at least we have such structures to see. If all the Havelis of Shekhawati were to vanish in entirety how would we know about their existence? There are many Havelis which have been converted into a museum or hotels. While Indians may not be gungho about it, it does excite travellers from other parts of the world. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this issue. 😊
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Great post Arv, had never heard of these amazingly beautiful structures. Sad they are disappearing. You B&W image was quite moving – appreciate your sharing these
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Tina, I hope you get to travel and visit Jaipur someday. I’m sure this will be a great subject for an ace photographer like you. I’m happy you liked this post.
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Your blog definitely impressed me! The ancient architecture is amazing! Everything is so bright and beautiful. Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks. I’m glad it impressed you, Tori
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Your posts are always so beautiful, thank you for sharing x x
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Thanks, Claire. I’m glad you loved them all. 🙂
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Arv, I guess money is the biggest challenge to keep havelis in their original form for a few owners. I believe if government could help in restoration,then it would be an encouraging effort for all owners.Though selling the place and constructing a new commercial building gets a lot of money.
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It certainly is. Without an agency to help, it is going to be impossible. Have you lived in an old mansion during your years in Jaipur?
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Not in Jaipur but in Chomu while teaching in Pareek College. It was a kind of something between haveli and mansion. Divided between 7 siblings and only one family was staying there. So to avoid daily hectic transportation I was staying there in a room which was not a room but a huge hall. One neighbouring family was very nice, so managed three years there!!!
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Thanks for sharing your experience. It are experiences like these that we never forget. Even towns like Chomu have changed completely over the last few years.
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Is it !! I hope change has brought some better roads for this town.
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Not much to complain here. 🙂
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That’s good.
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They have done the same thing in London. Here in Boulder, they want to save an awful and cheap 1950’s ranch house neighborhood. If you saw them, you would laugh!
Love the photos, but the ads, not so much!
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Thanks for sharing experience from your part of the world. Have many old buildings in London been razed?
Ads? I guess that’s the perks of using WP. I have’t installed any at my end.
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Yes, centuries old buildings stand next modern monstrosities.
You don’t see the ads? Check out your blog after searching for it in Google.
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Thanks. Those ads are because of wordpress. Thanks for pointing it out, Susie.
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Very nice pictures! Thanks for sharing!
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I’m glad you liked it.
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This is a fabulous read Arvind. Truly gives us an overview of not just havelis but the root of the problem. Commercialisation and urbanisation are making the most impact and we can still preserve as much as we can, by converting them into hotels for better upkeep.
Didnt know about the Dhundhadi architecture! Thanks for sharing 🙂
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I’m glad you found this useful, Divsi. The pressures of commercialisation are quite strong and this is creating an adverse situation for the built-heritage. There many Havelis elsewhere in Rajasthan which have been converted into hotels and are generating a good revenue stream. Not many people have heard this term and it is not used much which explains why you have’t heard about it. 🙂
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
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